Big Time at UPSR

Cojones are bigger than expected today, just got in to work after a mondo wave sess at Unprotected Sex Rock! Checked the big wave spots first. While it looked rideable, the Westerly swell was breaking way over into the channels. A few major set waves closed out the entire lineup. Time to hit UPSR!

Paddling out in the darkness was definitely pushing it this morning, but getting past the rock was fairly ez. While paddling out the 'tweener waves looked inviting. 6-8 feet, smooth and peeling from the inside tip of the reef back to the cove. Problem was the major repurcussions of setting up for those 'tweener waves. Got a lesson real quick as a real set came through the lineup. Double O plus, and breaking way outside and way over into the channel. Big time drag from three mondo waves in a row.

So catching a 'tweener was out of the question. Paddled out and over to the main set wave take off spot, and set up for the Double O express. Took a set and 1/2 to get positioned, then got hair raising ride #1. BIG wave appeared on the horizon, and started to feather. Stroked like hell for the shoulder thinking to get over it. At the last second some unexpected courage bubbled through my tingly body. I wheeled about and shoulder hopped what looked like a 12 foot face.

The drop down the face put my heart in my throat. Hit the bottom and dug into the bumpy surface for a stumbling bottom turn. This is exactly why I ride a rounded pin tail. Made the turn, and looked down the line to see a pitching buckling section way over my head. But I made it around the sucker, then rode up to the lip for a look around. Coming my way was a rebounding wedge of water from the rocks. I checked the cojones, then dropped down the face and hit the flying wedge head on with all the speed I could muster. Major Air! I went flying through space in front of the wall, then came down hard on it again. Rode that wave all the way back to the UPSR and kicked out.

Paddle back was weird. Exhileration flowed through me from the first ride, but tingly scary feelings competed for my attention. And these got worse as I surveyed the waves and the lineup. Decided to ignore the obvious, and ride a few more. Dodged a few mackers waiting for waves I could actually ride, and eventually got two more much like the first one.

After three rides the lineup and the waves began to look even more dicey. Don't know if the increased light from the sunrise made this happen, or maybe my better judgement was winning over the exhileration of riding those beasts. In any event I figured that three waves were enough! Just getting back into the cove through the mackers was a challenge, but soon enough I washed onto the sand, and hightailed it out of there. The farm workers harvesting the fields in the semi-darkness stared at me as I hiked back to Highway 1.

Sitting at work, I gotta wonder at my decision to paddle out in those conditions. The fact that it was a successful sess is what I'll remember, but it certainly pushed the envelope of my capabilities. Didn't feel any panic while out there, and I never doubted my ability to swim in if my leash broke. Still, there's a lot to be said for playing safe, and not risking too much in the pursuit of waves. I ain't no Mavs hellman after all.

CU Out There,

DogMan