Extreme NW swell wrapped nicely over the reef at Big D this morning, macking double O+ rights were smokin'! Through the darkness-piercing binos I could see a few with my name written on them. Time to rip it!

Paddled out at 615, launched from mid beach since the high tide and white water blocked the normal put-in spot on the rocks. Paddled out without serious trouble, then across the channel to the tip of the reef. Immediately a macker set marched in from the deep, and I was out of position.

With the high tide the waves were strong, but a bit flabby, and fairly ez to get under. I did get the expected ice cream headache, but nothing toooooo objectionable. Got lined up and waited for the next set of waves. Long lulls were the order of the day, but the rides were worth it for sure.

One of my buds calls certain waves redeemers. A redeemer is a single wave that by itself makes the whole session worthwhile. My question is what do we call a wave that's better than a redeemer? I caught three of these today. Each one would make it worthwhile to paddle around in a circle for five days in a row without catching another wave. Or maybe make it worth while to buy a brand new stick, just for that one wave.

Though I rode a lot of waves, those three were incredible. Each one was at least 12 feet tall on the face, long and connected, steep and fast, and the kind of ride you remember for a long time. On one of them I pulled out of the bottom turn, straightend my knees, stood tall on the deck, and gazed upward at the lip curling over my head. Looked to be 12 to 15 feet above the surface of my board. Hopefully I wasn't measuring this with the adrenaline that was coursing through me, but with a practiced eye for surf. All three waves were bouncy, challenging, long rides that started toward the Death Cove, but took my all the way across it and over the next reef down the coast. Long long paddles back to the lineup were the payback.

Swell will be winding down over the next few dayz. Play hooky from work, call in sick, ditch school, lie to your wife/parents/ teacher/boss. Get some juice, get some stoke, get some waves. I guarantee you will not be sorry you did.

CU Out There,

DogMan