Spent the last three weeks on the Big Island and on Maui. Lots of pix, stories, interviews and stoke to share in coming weekly features. Stay tuned.... Got some email while gone that I'll share, mostly responses to the column called "Sometimes It Only Takes One Wave."

Hey Dogman,

I was reading your article, "It only takes one wave" and it struck a chord with me. I've been surfing since I was 15 and I'm now 49. Over the years I've had slumps that almost convinced me it was time to give it up--at least during the winter. I usually surf OB, occasionally heading down to SC (always politely). This past fall I think I surfed as solid as I have for the past 5 or six years. I was paddling my 7'9 gun through the OB white water from hell and catching a fair amount of quality waves. I rode the biggest wave of my life in early December which was a good solid 15 footer. Also got pounded by another shortly afterward that sent me into the beach for recovery. But I was stoked. Since then, I stayed out the water most of December. Not because of the pounding but because of the poo. I got sick years ago from surfing after heavy rain and don't want to do that again. Now I'm having a difficult time again getting the rhythm back, but I know that wave is coming that will get me back into it. Thanks for the reminder.

DM

Hi,

I'm the guy that does the North Coast Surf Report. I don't often read the columns but just happened to be guided to this page by a friend that liked the pic next to your column. I can really identify with your feelings on this one. I am now 46, andĘ don't surf as good as I used to, on average, in part due to age. But those sessions where you pick off the lion's share of the set waves, or just kick ass on a few good ones, make up for several of those near-kook days. I don't see a regression in my wave knowledge, or my status as a waterman. I do see a big decline in my overall performance though. But, you know, I have found that very often, when I am feeling the worst about my abilities, it is equipment problems more often than not. Maybe the board that fit my abilities perfectly 2 years ago, just doesn't as much now. Sometimes, it was the board all along. At any rate, I just wanted to give you a right on, and killer waves to you dude.

Mike

DM writes back:

Mike,
I alwayz check your report before heading out. Even tho it's for the North Bay, it helps predict SC tooo! Share a wave someday?

Hi my name is rebel,

Thank you so much for the article. I learned to surf in the bay area late in life. I would say I really started surfing daily when I was 27, and I mean daily. I had a routine every morning going for about 3 years. I went from a 7'8" board to a 6'8 at age 29. Anyway moved to Maui for one year surfed The Bay, Hole in DA Head all of the above. Anyway I have been struggling since I came back, and really identified with the article thanks for helping me not take it so personally.

Hi! How are you?
I send you this file in order to have your advice.
See you later. Thanks

DM answers GB:

GB,
Resend the file, and let me know what application to use with it. I tried MS Word '98 and a text editor called BBedit. So far can't open it. Like to help you out, but you gotta resend it in a format I can use.
DM

Hey Dogman,
I don't think you surf. Anyone who writes "I was alone with my thoughts in the break zone, and I studied the horizon by the light of the full moon for the incoming waves. Just the way I like to surf." I postulate that type of BS dosen't sit in 52 degree iced water to surf Tres Amigo's semi-shitty backwash. Peace out ming and keep droppin in Jack's. The tiled spam is a nice touch. Gracias.

Yoda

DM answers Yoda:

You must not have read the column for very long. I almost *alwayz* surf in the predawn dark, alone, and often by the light of the moon. My very first column on PWR (thanx to ggcarrol) was called "Vampire Surfing." In any event, I like to hear from the skeptics most of all. More fun than email that alwayz agrees with what I say. What tiled spam?
DM

Almost all the email was about the "Sometimes It Only Takes One Wave" column. Only got one response to the "Tales of Ho'okipa" column. Apparently no one cares if DogMan is consumed by the ocean while pursuing an unwise go out in killer surf! No one that is except one person...... my mom:

Hi -- You didn't tell *me* about your close call in Maui some years ago. Shame on you for taking such chances. I hope you've learned your lesson.

Your Mother

DM answers Mom:

Mom, Yeah well this episode might even have been during the trip to Maui that you and Dad made with us. Anyway I did tell you, just took awhile. Didn't tell C either for a long time.

Besides, I lived.... Maybe now's not the time to tell you this, but I've been in several dangerous situations while surfing over the years. None the worse for wear.

Wait until you see the pix of Hookipa from this past trip!
DM

Haven't yet had time to process all the journal entries, photos, interviews and stories from the Hawaii vacation. In coming weeks DMC will be all about these experiences and more. Keep the email commin'!

CU Out There,

DogMan