Big Island Boogie






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Big Island Boogie

Spent three weeks in Hawaii in February, first on the Big Island, then on Maui. This feature is about a surf break in front of our condo on Hawaii. It's about boogie! As usual, click on the thumbnails to display the large versions in a new browser window. Enjoy.


First, a few overviews of the suf break in front of our condo. This shot was taken early in the morning, with the sun rising over the Holualoa volcano. In the wave you can see some white water out on the shoulder. This is evidence of the sucky shallow reef that dominates the take off zone.


Sunday, February 10, 2002

Late afternoon, first day on the Big Island, plunged into the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean in front of our vacation condo. Wore my snorkle gear so as to see the reef and fish while paddling back and forth.

There was no significant swell, but wanted to check the shallow reef and rocks in and around the surfbreak called Honls. It's also called Haddos and Hannos. a nearby home of the Honl family is the source of the name. There weren't any waves at that time, but hope existed for future possibilities.

While swimming, saw two honu casually paddling along the edge of the reef. Honu is the Hawaiian word for sea turtle.

The break is popular with boogie boarding local school kidz. They are so experienced with it they can ride it even when it's less than a foot in height. When swell increases it becomes rideable for board surfers too. At low tide rocks are uncovered in the lineup, making surfing a risk. Higher tides and swell levels bring out the local bad boyz who dominate the waves. You get your choice of hazards. The break is mostly a right along the North edge of a small cove. The cove is lined on both sides with rocks along the shore, but in the middle of the cove is a small sandy beach for launching and landing. Mostly surfers go right along the North edge, taking off directly in front of the shallowest point of the reef. Sometimes they lineup just a bit to the North of this, and go left, directly toward the condos in which we stayed while there. There's a seldom ridden break along the South edge of the cove that goes left; it's called "Toilet Bowl."


Another overview of the break, also early morning. Notice how abruptly the shoulder of the wave diminishes toward the center of the pic. This reflects the hard edge of the ragged reef. Playing with this edge is what makes the reef fun and challenging for surfers.... and for boogie.


Last overview. This was taken from the small beach at the base of the cove. Notice the lefts on the opposite side of the break. Locals call this the toilet bowl.


Tuesday, February 12, 2002

Tuesday afternoon the tide and swell both came up, and no one was surfing it. I paddled out, and my bro' K took pix. These will be the subject of a future column. Swell was head high on sets and juicy. Soon the after-school boogie boyz joined me. The fast sucky rights were challenging and fun. The school kidz were a fun crew with which to share some waves; watching and talking with them gave me some tips on where to lineup, and which waves to ride. It was a great session. Soon I got out of the water because the lineup was filling fast with spongers, and I got my waves. Took pix of the boogie boarders, many of which are shown in this column.


Local drop knee. This shot was taken from my bro's condo, looking through the palm trees. Frames the shot nicely, don't cha think?


Zoomin' right. Check how critical the wave gets in front of the surfer, as he plays the edge of the reef perfectly.


Wednesday, February 13, 2002

Wednesday dawn I took a cue from the locals, and boogie boarded in the small surf of Honls as the sun rose over Holualoa. There were indeed long waits between waves, but it was fun. Was an interesting contrast to riding standup. Waves were perhaps waist to chest high; at that height the break works better for a body board.


This wave presents a much longer face going right. It's a squirelly yet challenging reef and a fun wave.


More drop knee. The local boyz are *good*. They get the most out of every wave. It was a treat to watch them in action, and to share a few rides with them.


Last pic for this week's feature. Boogie right on the Big Isle.

Plans can change, but expect to see a feature next week with pix of another Big Island surf spot. I call it Kona Decoys. In coming weeks, look for lots more features, columns, interviews and pix from Hawaii.


CU Out There,

DogMan


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