Honolua Bay Readers' ResponseDogMan's LinksCheck DogMan's OnLine Shop!Email DogManDogMan's Podcast.Check DogMan's New Book.Visit DogMan's WebsiteSix Years Ago on DogMan's ChroniclesThe Green RoomHonolua Bay Readers' ResponseHonolua Bay, click to enlarge in a new window
A few weeks back, DMC posted a photo pheature on Honolua Bay, that
world-famous right point break in Maui. You can see the orignal
feature by clicking
here. Several readers emailed their thoughts and experiences
about The Bay, and this column shares those with all DMC readers.
RW Shares his Experience"I had the privilege to surf it one fine evening at the end of January. My first time. I was on a quick 5 day trip just to get my pregnant girlfriend some warm sun and didn't take a board but rented a nice log from Ole. I ran into him at the bay, coming out of the water. The guy's an inspiration. "It was Friday evening and I wandered over just to check it out. I always thought that its rep was like Makaha, in other words, no room for haoles. It was about head high and after about 20 minutes I decided I just had to paddle out and maybe pick up a scrap or two. It was cool to see the after work local crowd paddling out, hanging, talking, snagging a couple now and then. I was hanging in the middle section, hoping someone would fall but they rarely did. The quality of "real Hawaiian" surfers is astounding. For the most part they were cool and I even got a "go bradda" when I was paddling after a wave that the guy missed.One aggro haole was "invited" to leave the water after tangling up with a local.
"So I ended up with a few waves and an experience I'll never forget. Can't
wait to go back. It was privilege, pure and simple.
"By the way, I couldn't resist getting a board from Ole so I ordered a
single fin 9'0" pintail with balsa rails. It got here last week and I'm
having a hard time putting wax to it."
DM Answers RW
I too feel it's a privilege to surf The Bay, and I am impressed with
the surfing skill of the locals there. In fact the women in the lineup
surf way better than I ever did, or ever will!
I've found if you visit the lineup there (or other spots on Maui)
with a healthy dose of respect and friendliness that the Hawaiians
will be more than accomodating. Still, it's a very competitive
situation. You gotta work for each wave!
Next Up Is Leo
"Hi Dogman!
"I just got back on tues from a week in Maui with my family. By amazing
good fortune a solid N swell hit for the last 2 days of our trip and I
got to surf the bay, the first day was solid 2x and the second day was
a good 1.5-2x at Caves, a bit smaller at the point. I'd never surfed it
before so it was pretty challenging getting it wired that first day.
"I made the mistake of thinking Caves would be the easier spot to
start at since it was closest to the channel, but I was wrong.
That's a steep ledgy wave breaking in front of the cliff, and the bayÊ
wasn't as clean as on your pix (tide was high and the wind wasn't offshore)
so I was struggling to make any waves on my 6'8". Definitely coulda used
a bigger gunnier board there, but that's all I'd brought. The wave felt a
lot like ????? but without the soft spot after the take off. And getting
caught inside was even less fun than ????? since I was never quite
convinced that I would get swept past the caves (as opposed to into them)
should I give up the struggle. I got absolutely drilled on my first
wave, a guy deeper than me couldn't get in so I spun and went for it.
Discovered how ledgy and steep it was, made it to the bottom but not
balanced and fell. I bagged 3 waves after that, gave up a lot more
(there was always somebody deeper) and then went in. Ended the session
with some "fun" rock climbing as I missed the proper trail back up the
cliff.
"The next day I was back for more. It was bumpy again but a more manageable
1.5-2x. Again I started at Caves, got 2 waves there and gave up a lot more
before figuring my chances were better at the point. The point was smaller
but less contested since it's not as focused a peak. Got a bunch of waves
there including one long ride with a short barrel that generated some hoots.
I finally went in when I couldn't paddle anymore. This time I went in at
the little beach cove, and forewent the rockclimbing. This session
definitely went better, and I was sure glad to get that second chance
at the bay."
Reply to Leo
Leo, like your comparison of The Bay to ?????, a place we both like
to surf here in Santa Cruz. We probably have shared some waves
out there over the years.
I usually try to catch waves up one break toward the point from
the Cave, and then connect them thru. I find this is hard, but if
I can pull it off the crowd will yield to me, and it's ezr than making
that critical ledgey take off. Plus, it just feels good!
Haven't yet been caught inside there, in all my years of visiting, but
I must say I am NOT looking forward to it. I have taken more than
my share of punishment inside at ?????. Can you say ICECREAM HEADACHE!!??
Rog Writes
"Liked your photos of Honolua. Here's another story. Surfed it last
January for the first time since 1962, call it a 40th anniversary!
Caught it on that big swell of early January. Had one uncrowded day at
about 6 foot. I still regret passing on a perfect double overhead day,
but thought I needed something smaller for my first paddle out. The
break is still pretty much the same, fast, but the scene is not what it
was 40 years ago. If you can imagine a spring break in 1962 with three
of us camping at the Bay for a week, walking to Honolua Store for
supplies ( we had no car), bodysurfing Slaughterhouse and riding Honolua
alone. But hey the magic is definitely still there, despite the
development of what was then the very epitome of country--Maui."
Writing Back Attcha Rog
Rog, I didn't visit Maui for the first time until the 80's, so I can
only imagine the scene you relate from '62. Even in the years I've
been vacationing on Maui the amount of development North toward The Bay,
and South into Makena is incredible.
I still enjoy the place, and always look forward to surfing Honolua, but
the changes on the island just make me shake my head. I realize the
economics of people like me are part of the driving force.
But for surfers, as you said, the break is still the same. The magic of
a ledgey wave at the Cave is still there. Cranking to the right, down
the line, faster and faster, will I make it? It's a legendary break,
and rightly so.
Last One from W
W writes about the more recent column, "Water Cam in DogLand" but
couldn't resist a mention of the Bay:
"..... Hope you guys are getting something up there, it is basically
flat here... P.S. I am on a Mac using Netscape and when I click on the
MPEGS it goes to a page with a bunch of code?!? It used to work a
couple of months ago, but hey, I can't expect you to make it work
for everyone. I look at all your pics though, man I gotta get to
Honalua, it has mystique and well as perfection. As for Windows = Hell.
Later, and hope you score this weekend. W"
Last Word from DM
W, Yeah you DO have to surf Da Bay, at least once in your life.
I too am a MacMan, and have spoken with the main man at PWR about
the MPEGs. Once I get them working again for me, I'll let you know
how I did it. Basically what I hear is that MS has a Media Player
version for the Mac, and you and I have to get it!
And that's the end of the Honolua Bay thang, at least until next
Winter when I hope to return to Maui, and get some more juice at the
Bay. I certainly hope you enjoyed all the pix and wordz about
the most beautiful and perfect right point break in the world.
CU Out There,
DogMan
Email DogMan |