DMC likes interviews; an opportunity to shift the focus from the typical "I went to this break, I rode this wave" column. Also a chance to get to know another surfer, maybe see them in action.

But you must know, of all the columns in the DogMan Chronicles, interviews generate *the fewest* email responses by far. It ain't even close. The conclusion is PWR and DMC web surfers aren't particularly interested in interviews.

But heck, this is DogMan's column, and I like interviews! The first interview posted was with surf bud AstroMan. Dr. J is another bud, and this is his interview. Dr. J and I don't often see each other in the lineup, since we prefer different breaks and surf at different times. It's typical to see J when leaving the beach. But we surf together now and again, and keep in touch via email. Thursday, April 25, 2000, we rendevouzed at Dux Reef for one sweeeeeeet session. This is where the pix were taken, and it led to this interview. As usual, click the thumbnails to open larger versions of the pix in a separate window. Hope you enjoy.

DM: First things first. Your accent is not a West Coast thing, where did you spend your childhood?

DrJ: I grew up in Brooklyn, in a crazy Italian mafia neighborhood. My sister married into an Italian family with a big wedding party right out of the movies.

DM: And how did you get your nick?

DrJ: Well, I'm a medical Doctor, and my last name is too long for most people to pronounce.

DM: Where and when did you learn to surf?

DrJ: In my 'hood street basketball was the main sport, but being only 5'7" tall, I didn't fit in with it. My parents took me to Rockaway Beach in New York on the weekends, and it's there that I learned to surf. It became my sanctuary; it's where I first fell in love with the ocean.

My first board was a 9'6" Bunger single fin. I surfed from age 13 through 20, when I moved to Philadelphia to enter medical school. I didn't surf again for many years.

DM: So when did you move to Northern California?

DrJ: Twenty years ago. After medical school I did my residency in New England. When I moved to California I took up surfing again, at age 35.

DM: Can you remember your first session in Northern California?

DrJ: Sure. BC took me up the coast to Highlanders, which totally humbled me. I had trouble just paddling out, and only caught one wave. But that session reminded me how much I liked surfing. I love the sport; it provides great relaxation from work.

By the way, it's a lot tougher to surf here in Northern California than in Rockaway Beach, NY. Pacific waves have a lot more juice, and the stakes are higher.

DM: What's your favorite board these dayz?

DrJ: The board in these pix, a Ward Coffey 7'4" square tail hybrid thruster.

DM: And what's your favorite Santa Cruz break?

DrJ: Gotta be Steamer Lane. Early morning, no one out. South swell off the point is soooo sweet. I can get about 45 minutes in before the crowd hits it.

DM: So what's your favorite place to travel for surf?

DrJ: I love Kauai; there are so many good waves. I have some friends there; one near Kaneole Bay, who I visited in early April of this year. April is a good time to surf Kauai, there's some small South swell, and leftover Winter North West swell. The island is so small you can drive to any break quickly. There's lots of spots that are less crowded. It helps having a local in the water with you, to maneuver in between all the guyz with prison tattoos!

DM: What's the scariest wave you've ridden?

DrJ: When I was 18, I traveled to Le Barre in the South of France. A mondo hurrican swell came up, and I gave it a go on a borrowed Sunset gun. Joe Lopez and some other pro riders were sitting on the beach watching, and waiting for the swell to diminish some before paddling out. But I went for it. Basically I spent two hours frantically paddling for the horizon.

Finally a 5XO bomb came through. I paddled for it, took off, and made the drop. I turned at the bottom and straightened out when it closed. Then I proned out, rode it in and kissed the sand on the beach.

DM: Awesome story, what's best part of surfing for you?

DrJ: I like just hanging in the lineup, checking the horizon, watching the sun come up in the East, being with friends. You know, catching a wave just adds to the whole experience.

I like to say if I catch a wave, take off and make the drop it's great. If I shake my butt once it's bonus.

DM: Great attitude, J. How about your family? Do they surf?

DrJ: I have a wife and three lovely daughters. Every one surfs, but my wife mostly limits her sessions to warm water spots. I'm lucky that the whole family likes to go on surf vacations instead of ski trips. We go on a tropical surf trip at least once a year. This coming Christmas we'll be in Costa Rica.

DM: I made this mistake once, and never again. Being the DogMan, howz Max? Note: Max is J's large beautiful German Shepherd.

DrJ: Max is great! He goes to the beach with me all the time, but I leave him in the car. Since I've been taking Max with me my car has been safe from break ins. He's the best car alarm ever. Of course Max would like to come out to the water with me, but he's used to protecting the surfmobile.

DM: What's your dream Sess?

DrJ: Hey that sess at Dux in these pix comes really close to perfect. Clear and calm conditions, two friends out, smooth waves. We could have used a touch more height to the swell, but other than that...

I was in heaven; the right space of mind. You know it's perfect when you find yourself hooting the other guy into waves; you feel just as good for him as if you had ridden the wave yourself.

DM: Thanx so much for spending the time to talk with all the DMC readers. I know I'll CU out there many times more.

Note: A common theme in the DM interviews is expressed by Dr. J. Early on in a surfer's development, it's about the waves, almost like each ride is a trophy. As the surfer matures, the focus shifts. More and more it's about the ocean, being near it, in it, around it.

As this attitude develops it becomes harder and then impossible to "strike out." Every visit to the ocean is unique, offering memorable experiences. Riding a wave is still part of it, but only one part in a greater whole. As I write this I have just returned from dawn patrol and didn't get wet. Toured the whole coast in DogLand looking for waves. Met and hung with the AstroMan; we shared the sights, the smells, the feel of the ocean at sunrise. Even though the swell was too small for DogMan, the session was still a success.

CU Out There,

DogMan