Contrasts
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ContrastsSaturday February 9, 2008, Capitola by the Sea
The sess was mellow, a change from most surfing these past weeks at the usual haunts in DogLand. Capitola is a picturesque village with boutique shopping, restaurants and bars along the beach, a wharf, and a promenade along the sandy shore that terminates at a quaint bandstand.
Mellow and Relaxing
The bandstand is just in front of a popular long board surf spot, next to a small groin. You can't find a more relaxing and mellow beach anywhere, and sometimes there are waves!
Change of Pace
Dark skies of predawn arched overhead, but the white water of breaking chest-high waves was still visible from the bandstand. I decided a kicked-back session would be a good change of pace, so began to prepare for surf. In the darkness it was a bit dicey feeling my way over the rocky groin to the beach beyond, but soon I was paddling along the small breakwater toward the lineup.
Vince
By the time I rode my first wave, Vince was already surfing too. He owns a surf shop in Capitola, which sets him in good position to get waves on the best days. Vince was only the first of many surfers who paddled into the salty sea for a Saturday breakfast of rides on friendly waves. By the time I could see clearly by the rosy hues of the sunrise, there were two dozen of us sharing the lineup.
Dodge
Most rode longboards, since this break is a perfect log ride. But some surfed modified fish, or shortboards. To the east, the sun provided spectacular lateral lighting, perfect for the pictures I took after my session. And the session was a touch short, since Capitola is draconian about parking meters. All spaces in the vicinity have such, which run from 8AM on. So I had to get out of the water to feed the meter, or get out of Dodge.
Saving Quarters
After coming ashore to assess things, it was clear the lineup was becoming a small city. I decided to save my quarters, so took the pix and scrammed. It was a great way to start the weekend.
ContrastsSunday February 10, 2008, Monster Reef, DogLand.
The contrast with Saturday couldn't have been more extreme. Bracing cold clear weather was punctuated by the sound of terrifying artillery that was in reality double-overhead waves breaking across the entire reef. Unlike Capitola, there were no street lights to illuminate anything, and no moon overhead. Wan starlight was insufficient to the task in the hour before sunrise. Flashlights were required for the hike across the fields and down the trail from Highway 1 to the beach.
Pags and AstroMan
DogMan rendevouzed with AstroMan and Pags at the small bluff by the side of the road that serves as the unofficial parking lot. Pags is recently returned from Oz, where he lived for several years. The three of us made our way across the beach, and through the small stream that empties in to the ocean at the base of the large reef. Just offshore from this is a chaotic piece of water we call the toilet bowl. It's here that fresh water converges with sheets of salt water sweeping across the shallow reef, and with shore pound coming from the opposite direction.
Big But Mushy
Soon AstroMan and DogMan convened in the deep water, far from the point of the cove, in the channel that is usually safe from the incoming waves. Not this morning though, as infrequent sets would swing wide of the usual lineup, and threaten them both with avalanching walls of white water nearly 10 feet high blitzing the area. In truth, it looked more dangerous than it was, as the waves proved to be overgrown mushburgers. This is typical of conditions such as this at the Monster Reef. Meanwhile Pags stayed ashore awhile to survey the situation.
Challenge on the Inside
Both AM and DM rode a few waves, which presented a challenge. Being mushy on the outside, it was difficult to get enough speed down the line to successfully negotiate the famous inside section. This part of the break was the usual tiger, walling, jacking and throwing large volumes of water as the waves hit a sharp shallow edge of the reef. Without enough momentum, an unwary surfer was suddenly on the bad side of this falling hammer, with no where to go but down.
Crew in the Water
But it was all good fun; sometimes you made it, sometimes you didn't. Soon Pags joined us in the water, along with many of our friends. And this time I mean that literally, these were folks we knew by name, and by past surf experience. Among them were Stas the crazy Russian, Pete who charges everything to excess, Brad, and others. The vibe was mellow, but all were leery of the rogue sets that could upset the party.
Keep it Coming
After awhile, I came ashore to get some pix for this column. They provide a good counterpoint to the pix from the day before at Capitola. This column is heavy with images, so I hope you enjoy the images from both days. And we all hope upcoming weekends are as rich with swell and fine conditions. So far it's been a good winter season for waves, let's keep it going.
CU Out There,
DogMan
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