March 22, 2008

Surfed solo at double K this morning by the light of the full moon. I dragged my chilled and tired carcass up the cliff following a 90 minute session, and joined my good friend Mark at the overlook. We talked about this and that for about 15 minutes.

But here's the thing: we hardly looked at each other the entire time. Instead, we both faced the ocean and watched the empty waves as they formed and broke on the reef below us.

Now and then we commented on a particular wave, whether it broke evenly for surfing, or closed out. We put ourselves into the narrative, imagining ourselves riding or not riding particular waves.

Our fascination with the riderless waves was obvious, even as we spoke of more important matters such as Mark's coming new baby. Our eyes seldom left the lineup, and our conversation always returned to the waves.

Reflecting on this later that afternoon, I was reminded again just how tantalized surfers are by waves. We don't have to be riding them or paddling for them for a lasting impression to be made. We just like to watch.

So I combed through the DogMan files for the last months to choose some good shots of empty waves for this column. Since you are like Mark and me, I know you will enjoy seeing them too.

CU Out There,

DogMan