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Six Years Ago on DogMan's Chronicles

The Green Room



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A surf spot with no waves, except for this day.

Tuesday May 20, 2008

A rare set of conditions coincided Tuesday morning, and a slumbering surf break awoke after a long hibernation. Overhead waves began to peel opposite a rocky point, then scanned left across a wide beach and over a sandy bottom. Only one man came to ride these strange waves; only one surfer knew in advance that the time was ripe for a return to DogMan's Left.



Midrange picture of an overhead wave.

In Plain Sight

For 300 days in the year this place doesn't warrant a second glance. It's not even what my bud Steve calls "almost a surf break." Countless surfers pass it on their way to a most popular right hand wave in DogLand; no one sees it as it hides in plain sight. It's a break that doesn't break, except what it does. It's a spot that's not a spot, except when it is.



Pitching lip over shallow reef.

Secret Spot

For perhaps five days each year special conditions favor this place, and it goes off. It's a simple recipe; minus low tide, and a straight south swell of 3 to 4 feet in height. Of course many other surf breaks also feature great waves when this occurs, yet another reason DogMan's Left remains a "secret."



Folding section.

Peces Pequeños

Tuesday morning only DogMan and an intrusive seal were in the line up. DogMan rode his peces pequeños, the little fish; it had been a long time. So it took several false starts to get this board wired once more. But with summer approaching, the mango gordo board is the proper choice.



DogMan at DogMan's Left, one year ago.

The Real Break

Once up and running, DogMan scored left after left, many of them offering rides all the way to the sandy shore. One other surfer came to play; he rode the rights at the "real" break. Soul surfers both, the two surfed alone and isolated within distant sight of each other. It was a memorable session in an otherwise lackluster spring season of surf.



Paddling headlong into an overhead, pitching wave.

Counting Waves

After riding more waves than could be counted on all fingers and toes, DogMan left the water and snapped the empty wave pictures for this column. In the distant shots you can see the rights of the "real" break. There's one picture of DogMan surfing this place in similar conditions from June, 2007. This is for perspective only.



Going right at the "real" break.

Following this Mantra

Where is DogMan's Left? Wait for the right conditions, then follow your instincts. You must be willing to forego the usual breaks; you must be willing to search further and push harder. After all, it's not really a surf spot, except when it is. It doesn't really break, except when it does. Follow this mantra and you can find your own secret spots. They are everywhere, hiding in plain sight.


CU Out There,

DogMan


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