What's Your Pleasure?DogMan's LinksCheck DogMan's OnLine Shop!Email DogManDogMan's Podcast.Check DogMan's New Book.Visit DogMan's WebsiteSix Years Ago on DogMan's ChroniclesThe Green RoomWhat's Your Pleasure?Just a slice of the many lineups at Pleasure. Tuesday, May 20, 2008. Midday at Pleasure Point
Wow! Doesn't anyone work day jobs anymore? I'm standing along the
shoulder of East Cliff Drive watching an amazing sight. All the various
lineups and takeoff spots in the water are occupied by separate groups
of surfers. It's a salt-water city of wetsuits and surfboards I'm
watching. The variety couldn't be more pronounced.
East Side
As far as I can see, from the west toward Santa Cruz and to the east
toward Capitola, there are wave riders at the innumerable surf breaks
collectively called "The East Side." There are long boards, short
boards, fun boards, fish, even a few boogie boards in the water. There
are older guys with pot bellies and grey hair, young turks doing
impossible tricks on the waves, women surfing with grace, girls that are
keeping pace with everyone else, and young groms learning their stoke.
Seems as though not a single wave goes unridden.
Real Soul
For all the publicity that the West Side receives, with the world-class
Steamer Lane as its hub, it's obvious to me that the real soul of Santa
Cruz surfing is right here at Pleasure Point. The East Side rules, at
least for today. As I watch, there is a constant stream of surfers
arriving, entering the water, paddling to their chosen spot, and
swapping places with another constant stream of people reaching the end
of their session, riding to shore and changing into street clothes.
Metamorphasis
One shredder completely morphs himself from a surfer you might see in an
advertisement in a major surf magazine into a business professional
ready to go to work as an accountant, a lawyer, or the CEO of an
emerging company. I speak briefly with him as he removes his soaking
Quiksilver fullsuit, brushes his salty hair straight back from his
forehead, and dons a crisp white dress shirt, navy blue pleated
trousers, and black leather shoes polished to a keen sheen. He stows his
shortboard in the back of his truck, pulls on a blazer that matches his
pants, and drives away from the scene and on to work.
Get it Now
Of course one element that brings all the folks to play is the swell.
It's late spring, which is not the prime season for surf. The sky is a
bit overcast, but the ocean is oily smooth, and the swell is sweet.
These people know that you have to take advantage of the situation when
you can. We might all awaken tomorrow to a completely flat ocean, and
there will time enough to work at respectability. For today the waves
are the thing. Grab your board, ditch school, get out of work early or
go late, and ride ride ride.
At Least Pretend
And when it is flat, the memories of this day at Pleasure will help get
you through the times of no waves. It's not the same as surfing, but
reliving past sessions can help a bit. Maybe you can see yourself in the
pictures that illustrate this column. If you were there and riding a
notable wave, there's a good chance I snapped the lens with you doing
your thing. If not, then you can at least pretend. Put yourself into the
picture; imagine that it's your wave, your board, your stoke, your
memory. Maybe that can help get through the flat times that are
inevitable as we approach summer.
Click Back
So when it's blown, flat, ugly and inaccessible, just click back to this
column to share a piece of the stoke. After all, that's what it's all
about.
CU Out There,
DogMan
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