Spent a few days in Southern California recently; explored a long stretch of the coast during a modest south-west swell. Local Guide and I drove many miles checking famous spots, not-so-famous spots, private breaks, and even a few secret places. Everywhere we looked the lines and humps from the swell were evident, and everywhere we visited there were surfers in the water, in the parking lots, and driving in and out.

But no where along that lengthy span of shore looked better than the 'Bu.

Strange as it sounds, I've never before surfed Malibu. I don't have any particular grudge to bear, nor any aversion to the place. It's just never happened. But Monday was the time for my first wave at the 'Bu. Storied surfers, legends, tall tales, and history permeate the location, from some of the first surfing in 20th century California, to funky phony Gidget movies, to the current scene with mobs of people on all varieties of boards populating the various peaks and lineups on a summer day with a sweet south-west swell.

Tide was zero feet, so the cobblestone bottom was exposed as I picked my way over slippery rocks to the water. I chose a spot between two lineups, the better to get myself a bit of elbow room in the crowd. The strategy I employed was to take off way deep on one particular peak, and ride it into the closeout just before the wave reached the main group of surfers. On a particularly lucky wave, I thought I could connect it through the closeout and zoom amidst the main pack.

This tactic worked, after a fashion. I rode many waves uncontested, and got some sweet walls. I rode frontside and dragged my right arm along the faces for speed control. My ultra-fast fish was the perfect choice for getting down the line, getting covered in the barrel, and hopefully coming clean from the end of the tube.

But I never did connect that section the entire time I was out there. I did speak with several others in the water, and found everyone to be jovial, competent, and accomodating. OTOH, as Local Guide told me, "Every wave is a party wave." It looked like Pleasure Point, as four or more took off on each ride. It was all good; people yielded when appropriate, and the sectioning wave left many people stuffed, as the next surfer in the pocket took the lead.

Local Guide stayed ashore with the camera, took stills and vids, and looked for my distinctive mango gordo board with his lens. Alas! There were at least two others in the water with bright yellow boards, which from a distance could be confused with mine. LG did get one decent vid loop of me riding a wall into a closer, and that video is part of this column.

My first sess at the 'Bu was fantastic. I got out of the water and out of the way after riding a passel of waves in about 45 minutes. I'd certainly like to do it again, but don't have any dreams of dawn patroling the place by myself. There are too many eager board riders with the same desire, and they all arise as early as I do. I guess I'd get to know them all if I were to move into the area and make it my home break.

That's not likely any time in the forseeable future; I'll continue to ply the waters of DogLand in the remote reaches of Northern California. But I'd like to do the 'Bu again sometime soon.

CU Out There,

DogMan