Last week's chronicle
was all about the surf in Ocean Beach, San Diego. Specifically, at the Jetty located at the north end. Well, this week's Chronicle is a continuation, featuring more pictures of the action in the water, and a short video as well. Not many words this time, but that's ok too. Next week, we'll take a look at the surf action down the beach at the pier.
Swell:
Northwest windswell 4-7 feet 7-8 seconds, background south and southwest swells 2 feet or less 11-15 seconds
Wind:
Moderate northwest wind late morning
Waves:
Knee high
Tide:
1 foot at dawn, 4.5 feet at 2 PM, 2 feet at dusk
Weather:
Foggy early, clearing later
Best call:
Longboard at dawn, higher tides for the rest of the day should swamp the small swell
Saturday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 7-9 feet 8-9 seconds, background south and southwest swell 2 feet or less 14-17 seconds
Wind:
Moderate northwest wind late morning
Waves:
Knee to waist high
Tide:
1.5 feet at dawn, 4.5 feet at 2:30 PM, 2 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny with patchy fog early
Best call:
Longboard at dawn. It will be marginal early, but less and less likely to be breaking as the day wears
Sunday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 5-7 feet 7-9 seconds, background south and southwest swells 2 feet or a little more 12-16 seconds
Wind:
Light west wind starting in the morning
Waves:
Waist to chest high
Tide:
2 feet at dawn, 5 feet at 3 PM, 2 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny with patchy fog early
Best call:
Interesting situation. Tide is fairly deep all day, not good for the low tide breaks. However, the best (still modest) swell of the weekend will be Sunday. Be adventurous, try a new break that can handle higher water levels.
Summary
Expect small longboard waves at dawn Friday and Saturday. Best swell Sunday, but not epic. Try a remote break with exposure to the entire ocean (S, SW, and NW swells) that breaks at higher tides. Consider yourself among the lucky ones if you catch a few chest-high peelers.
Staying at a place right on the beach in San Diego County means the dawn patrol is easy; just a 2 minute walk from the front door to the edge of the Pacific Ocean. Water is much warmer than in Santa Cruz, and the air is pleasant even at 5:30 AM under a thick overcast.
Surfing OB
Incoming swell
Only one other hardy soul in the water at the Jetty plying the small crumbly breakers. Now and then, a ripple ricochetted off the groin and combined with an incoming swell to make a waist-high A-frame of tumbling white water. These were the best rides available, even though they were short.
Surfing OB
Spawning competition
Soon enough a few others joined the early crew, but the vibe was mellow and cooperative. Maybe this was due to the modest surf; just wasn't good enough out there to spawn any real competitive juices. Let a wave go by? No big deal since it wasn't that good anyway. Besides, another shin slapper was likely to be right behind it.
Surfing OB
Fingers
The others had real jobs to attend, so retired from the lineup after an hour or so. A few others paddled out, but the "crowd" was at all times countable on the fingers of one hand. OK, maybe a few fingers from the second hand too!
Surfing the Jetty
Local knowledge
With the fish underneath, the DogMan wasn't shredding the waves anyway. Small, mishapened gutless summer waves are what that board does best, but lack of local knowledge hampered the surfer on the board. Also, having brought only frigid temperature Quick Humps, the wax just wasn't staying on the deck. Make a note to visit a local shop to get some local wax!
Surfing OB
It's summer
As the day progressed, the overcast almost but not quite parted, and a modest onshore feathered the sands and the surface. The action in the water didn't stop. Hey! It's summer at the beach and the action was good. It wasn't epic out there, but the vibe was full o' stoke nonetheless.
Surfing OB
Drummers and guitarists
Beside the beach walkers, skateboarders, bicyclists, and motorists shared the narrow road covered with a fine dusting of sand, and lined with beach town businesses. A line waited outside Hodads waiting to get a famous burger for an early lunch. Drummers and guitarists jammed near the sand, each one wearing wrap-around shades darker than indigo. Shorts, sandals and t-shirts were the required uniform for all. It's summertime at the each in San Diego.
Swell:
Northwest windswell 4-5 feet 9-11 seconds, south swell 2-3 feet 13-15 seconds
Wind:
Moderate west winds in the afternoon
Waves:
Waist to chest
Tide:
0.5 feet at dawn, 4.5 feet at 11:15 AM, 3 feet at 3:30 PM, 5.5 feet at dusk
Weather:
Patchy fog, more at the coast
Best call:
Early morning low tide spots, mid to late morning high tide spots
Saturday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 3-4 feet 9-11 seconds, south swell 2-3 feet 12-14 seconds
in the day.
Wind:
Moderate west winds for the afternoon
Waves:
Chest to head
Tide:
0 feet at dawn, 4.5 feet at noon, 3 feet at 4 PM, 5 feet at dusk
Weather:
Patchy fog, more at the coast
Best call:
Early morning low tide spots, mid to late morning high tide spots
Sunday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 3-4 feet 9-10 seconds, south swell 1-2 feet 12-13 seconds
Wind:
Moderate west winds by afternoon
Waves:
Chest to head
Tide:
0 feet at dawn, 4.5 feet at 12:30 PM, 3 feet at 4:45 PM, 4.5 feet at dusk
Weather:
Patchy fog, more at the coast
Best call:
Early morning low tide spots, mid to late morning high tide spots
Summary
More waves on tap this weekend. Get the morning sess for cleanest conditions, as winds will blow out the exposed spots in the afternoon. Evening glass off at dusk favors high tide breaks.
From the furthest reaches of DogLand in Santa Cruz County...
Summer road trip
Late July, 2010, a perfect time for a surfing road trip. For nine days, DogMan and family (including dogs) will be cruising the California coast having fun, visiting with friends and relatives, and of course scouting for waves.
... to the Queen of the Pacific in Ventura County...
Not much swell
The outlook calls for modest, fun-sized swell; but of course it's summer time. The beaches and breaks will be packed with surfers and tourists. Starting in Santa Cruz, the itinerary calls for a long leisurely drive south to the sandy beaches of San Diego county. Stops along the way will include anywhere there might be waves to ride, as well as organized time in Ventura County.
... to the south breaks in San Diego County...
Not much swell
Look for DogMan Chronicles updates along the way, click back often to see some semi-real time coverage. As always, the pictures, videos, stories, accounts and outright lies collected from the trip will serve as source material for future columns at the on-line home of the DogMan, and at Pacific Wave Rider as well.
... time for a ROAD TRIP!!!
Not much swell
Keep an eye peeled for an unfamiliar surfer wearing way too much neoprene in the water (it's cold in the ocean around Santa Cruz) and you just might encounter the DogMan at your home break. Say "howdy" and swap tall tales, and you could find yourself pictured and quoted in these Chronicles. Share a wave, or snake a wave and you could be the star of one of these accounts.
Not much swell
More to come, now it's time to pack the surfmobile with all the water toys for the time away from the home breaks.
Swell:
Northwest windswell 4-5 feet 10-11 seconds, southwest swell 1-2 feet 12-14 seconds
Wind:
Moderate west winds by noon
Waves:
Waist high, some spots perhaps a bit bigger
Tide:
1.5 foot at dawn, 0 feet at 8:15 AM, 5.5 feet at 3:15 PM, 1.5 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny with patchy fog early
Best call:
Choose a spot according to tide and wind conditions
Saturday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 4-5 feet 10-11 seconds, southwest swell 1-2 feet 12-14 seconds
in the day.
Wind:
Moderate west winds by noon
Waves:
Waist high, some spots perhaps a bit bigger
Tide:
2.5 foot at dawn, 1 foot at 9 AM, 5.5 feet at 4 PM, 2 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny with patchy fog early
Best call:
Choose a spot according to tide and wind conditions
Sunday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 4-5 feet 10-11 seconds, southwest swell 1-2 feet 12-14 seconds
Wind:
Moderate west winds by noon
Waves:
Waist high, some spots perhaps a bit bigger
Tide:
3 foot at dawn, 2 feet at 10 AM, 5.5 feet at 5 PM, 3 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny with patchy fog early
Best call:
Choose a spot according to tide and wind conditions
Summary
Steady as she goes is the call this weekend. Swell, waves, weather, and winds will all hold at the same levels through the weekend. The only variable is the tide. Pick any break you want, and find the time of day when a favorable tide is present. Might need to duck the wind during the afternoon, but other than that, waist high waves or better are available the entire weekend.
So there it was; as the dusk spread it's overcast and gloomy paws across the heavens, and the illegal fireworks began to pop, whiz and sizzle along the sandy beach, Independence Day, 2010 entered the final hours. Of course, this was the highlight of the holiday, ostensibly a celebration of our nation's birth. However, it seems to be more of a tribute to drinking, partying, and lighting dangerous combustibles afire.
The big view from the cliff
Not much swell
One thing this Fourth of July was not, and that was much of a swell day in the City of Surf. But this was about to change, as a much anticipated south swell crept onto the scene under cover of drippy overcast darkening skies. The Fifth of July was to be the real day of celebration for surfers in Santa Cruz.
Around the corner
Searching for waves
Monday, 5AM, near the north boundary of Santa Cruz County. A singular surfer's vehicle skidded to a halt on the gravel along side Highway 1. In the gloom, two other surfers were already pulling into their wetsuits next to their own surfmobile; their boards lay in the ice plant that lined the shoulder. The solo surfer hurried along the short trail through the ice plant and poison oak to the edge of the cliff overlooking a vast irregular hemispherical reef several hundred feet below. This is a prime place for south swell to break with peeling lefts; anticipation led the surfer here.
Dive! Dive!
One toke over
However, the lines of incoming swell crumbled and closed for the most part. Only a few faces actually organized themselves into long surfable waves. While he watched, the other two surfers trotted past and down the long trail that hugs the face of the cliff. They seemed unbothered by the ugly conditions in the ocean. Calculating another option, the single surfer strolled back to his car and ventured along the coast to another south swell spot.
Pitching lip
Bud for a bud
At this next parking lot, another car was already parked; this time a surprising white sporty convertible. Not a typical surf car, it was instead a set of alternate wheels for a long time surf bud who was scoping the waves with the solo surfer. As the two conversed in low tones while scanning the horizon, the bud pulled a small pipe from his pocket and began to toke the morning hits of a strong illegal bud. Meanwhile, the waves were closing the reef at this break, so the solo one big adieu and drove to yet another place with waves.
Good position
The one
At this break, several cars were parked, and more were arriving. Apparently, a small hardy crew was already plying the waves at the break that resides a half mile from the highway. Solo man pulled on his wetsuit and hiked across the agricultural fields to join the action. At this cliff's edge, the sight was right for a bite of the rights that broke just a few strokes from the tip of the jagged triangular reef. Sweet! Finally found the spot that got the conditions correct for a morning sess.
Coasting
Peeling
This time, the quest west was the correct call for nearly all the tall waves to peel in a perfectly patterned parade of rippable rights. Even though the overcast cast a pall on the proceedings, the sky seemed to lighten and glow just a bit for the surf action below. Solo man joined the crew in the water and shared a few rides. So the Fifth of July began, and so the fifth man in the lineup earned his stoke.
Top turn
Reflections
The pictures from the cliff show some but not all of the situation below. Gloomy conditions are not overly conducive to photography, but the images will have to suffice to illustrate this missive about the fifth day of the seventh month of the two thousand and tenth year of the Common Era. It was a great day to ride waves in the City of Surf.
Swell:
Rising northwest windswell 2-6 feet 8-10 seconds, steady south swell 2-3 feet 14-16 seconds
Wind:
Moderate west winds by noon
Waves:
Waist high
Tide:
0.5 foot at dawn, 4 feet at 11 AM, 3 feet at 2:30 PM, 6 feet at dusk
Weather:
Foggy in the morning, possibly clearing later
Best call:
Best waves of the weekend. Try a dawn patrol in the gloom at a low tide spot.
Saturday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 5-7 feet 8-10 seconds. south swell 1-2 foot 12-14 seconds
in the day.
Wind:
Moderate west winds by noon
Waves:
Knee high at best
Tide:
0 feet at dawn, 4 feet at 11:30 AM, 3 feet at 3:30 PM, 6 feet at dusk
Weather:
Foggy in the morning, possibly clearing later
Best call:
Small waves at best, get a really long board and hit the low tide breaks at dawn.
Sunday
Swell:
Northwest windswell 4-6 feet 8-10 seconds. South swell, 1-2 feet 10-12 seconds
Wind:
Moderate west winds by noon
Waves:
Knee high at best
Tide:
-1 foot at dawn, 4.5 feet at noon, 3 feet at 4:30 PM, 5.5 feet at dusk
Weather:
Foggy in the morning, possibly clearing later
Best call:
More small waves, suitable for a blue foamie at dawn.
Summary
You want waves? Ditch work on Friday and surf early. Saturday and Sunday will be problematic. Or better yet, catch a flight to the southern hemisphere. I hear West Oz is happening.
How did you first learn to surf? At some point we were all beginners; there is a variety of means and methods available by which one can study the art and sport of wave riding.
Shin buster left
Hard knocks
As for me, I learned to surf by means of peer pressure, peer antagonism, peer observation, and peer support. Sometimes I experienced all of these in the same session! This is known as the school of hard knocks for surfers; but there are other options too.
The classroom
Organized
Should you wish to try this great sport for yourself, I suggest you check one of the many choices for an organized surf school in Santa Cruz. Here are just a few of the possibilities:
Summer is the best time to learn to surf in the City of Surf. The low minus tides of summer create excellent conditions at several breaks. The low swell levels create non-threatening waves that are great for beginners to learn.
Midterm exam
Instructor
Having a surf instructor is beneficial in several ways:
- Ocean savvy. Your instructor won't lead you into undue danger, although you must remember the ocean is always a hazardous place to play. Also, your instructor will have the local knowledge need to suss the best tides, waves and breaks for you to tackle on your first encounters with surfing.
- Technique. The various techniques needed to surf: paddling, wave anticipation, wave selection, catching a wave, popping to your feet, controlling you board in the break zone and more, are all required in real time while in the water. Trying to learn these all at once while "on the job" is a daunting task.
- Etiquette. Your surf teacher will clue you into the various rules, practices and courtesies of sharing the waves in the surf zone.
- Equipment. The surf instructor will provide you with suitable board and wetsuit for your early sessions. Later, your instructor can advise you on what you should acquire for your own equipment. Having the wrong board in the lineup can be extremely frustrating and downright dangerous.
If I crouch is it shoulder high?
Get wet
If you have ever been tempted by the sight of surfers shredding waves in the ocean and want to give it a go for yourself, now is a good time to take action on that dream. Contact one of the many options for surf training in the City of Surf and get wet!
Swell:
North-northwest windswell 5-7 feet 7-9 seconds
Wind:
Brisk northwest winds by noon
Waves:
Knee high maximum
Tide:
2 feet at dawn, -0.5 feet at 8:30AM, 4.5 feet at 3:45 PM, 2.5 feet at dusk
Weather:
Mostly sunny
Best call:
Slim pickings. Try a blue foamie on the low tide. Don't expect too much.
Saturday
Swell:
North-northwest windswell 5-7 feet 7-9 seconds. Small south swell 1-2 foot 18-20 seconds rising later in the day.
Wind:
Moderate northwest winds by noon
Waves:
Waist high early, possibly chest high late
Tide:
2 feet at dawn, 1.5 feet at 9 AM, 4.5 feet at 4:15 PM, 3 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny
Best call:
Dusk patrol at a wind-sheltered high tide spot exposed to south swell. Yes, these breaks do exist in the Santa Cruz area.
Sunday
Swell:
North-northwest windswell 5-7feet 7-9 seconds. South swell, 3-4 feet 18-20 seconds
Wind:
Lighter northwest winds by noon
Waves:
Head high to slightly overhead
Tide:
2.5 feet at dawn, 2 feet at 9:30 AM, 5 feet at 5 PM, 3 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny
Best call:
Best waves of the weekend. Check almost any place that picks up the south swells.
Monday
Swell:
North-northwest windswell 5-7 feet 7-9 seconds. Decaying south swell 2-3 feet 14-16 seconds
Wind:
Moderate west winds by noon
Waves:
Chest high, maybe shoulder high
Tide:
2.5 feet at dawn, holding steady until noon, then rising to 5 feet at 5:30 PM, 4 feet at dusk
Weather:
Sunny
Best call:
Best waves early from the left over south swell.
Summary
Windswell will not drive much into Santa Cruz, however a south swell should arrive later on Saturday and drive some decent waves for Sunday with a few left over for Monday.
What to do on a late-spring morning at the beach when the ocean is flat? Can't surf, but other beach activities are possible. Here's one: a dog romp. It's likely all dogs enjoy the beach, at least these two do. So the rest of this chronicle is a bunch of photos of the flat ocean at dawn, and the doggy shenanigins that took place.
The DogMan Chronicles
